The History of Burberry Trench Coat
From a military origin to a dream wardrobe staple
Oh the ever classy Burberry trench coat. I find the history behind this masterpiece so rich & interesting that I didn’t even second guess my decision to dedicate my 1st ever blog post writing about it.
Background: Invented by Englishman Thomas Burberry in 1870, his motivation to design this coat is speculated to be his rheumatism (inflammation and pain in joints and muscles), which was exacerbated by the damp British climate. So you may call it self-interest but it appears that he initially created this coat to protect people from the cold and damp weather conditions. Advised by his doctor not to wear a rubber raincoat any longer due to its un-breathability, in 1879 he invented (and 8 years later patented) a revolutionary fabric, named gabardine, that made him a fortune.
Fabric: Gabardine is a lightweight and breathable cotton-like fabric that was not waxed or rubberized unlike the conventional water-proof overcoats (and hence had no rubber smell!). The secret behind Burberry’s invention was to waterproof the yarn using lanolin (wool yolk/wax) before it was woven in addition to creating a diagonal pattern for the warp and weft of the yarn (twill weave), which created a tough, tightly woven fabric further repelling raindrops.
Tielocken: In 1895, the coat we all know and wear today was originally patented as Tielocken, the forerunner of the trench coats made of gabardine, which became burberry’s best selling coat. The term ‘trench coat’ came 13 years later when British soldiers wore the coat in the trench warfare in World War One I, as follows.
Military: We may know the trench coat as a fashion classic from the catwalk shows, adorning the shoulders of supermodels and celebrities (Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s being my fav), but this piece first starred a role in the Boer War in south Africa (1899-1902) and later on during the outbreak of World War I in bloody battlefields kitting out weary soldiers in trench warfare.
It is interesting to learn that with the exception of a few minor alterations, the Tielocken is the same legendary trench coat that was worn during the war and is worn today, though thankfully far from the muddy trenches these days… 😊
Details of garments: Here are some of the prominent details of the coat and their practical use:
- Shoulder straps: attaching epaulettes and insignia of the officers’ rank
- Gun/storm flap: provided additional protection when in combat by acting as padding for when the rifle recoiled and also covering rifle underneath to avoid water from entering it.
- Metal D-rings on the belt: hanging small knives, whistles, maps or other equipment
A couple interesting facts:
- The famous checkerboard pattern (the Nova Scotia tartan) wasn’t introduced until the 1920s in order to comply with the aesthetic needs and are aligned at a 45-degree angle.
- There has also been 26 pieces of fabrics that are used in making the coat as well as ten buttons for the double breasted section.
- All of Burberry’s trenches are still made in Northern England, where it takes one full year (!) for each tailor just to learn how to stitch the collar – the most intricate part with 180 hand-sewn stitches. 🤯Super neat!
Conclusion: The Burberry’s trench coat has a heritage far beyond the catwalks even though it might have lost its functional military connotation. As this coat will likely continue to hold up as a perennial classic through many more fashion cycles, its rich military history during the battlefields should not be forgotten.
Comment below if you found the rich history of this masterpiece so fascinating as well. Also, do you own this coat? If you do, tell me your story and if you don't, is it safe to say it's on your wishlist? 😍
